This past December Paul and I climbed the Black Dike. Fresh from a Montana ice climbing trip, Paul crushed the route in fine style. Paul returned this President’s Day weekend for a New Hampshire ice sample platter.

The first thing we climbed was the steep left wall of the Trestle Gully at Mt. Willard. This pitch was steep and required delicacy.

Everything on the south face was baked out but Gully 2.5 looked pretty good. Here’s Paul at the top of that climb. We then climbed Cinema Gully, a classic multi-pitch route that leads one to the upper wall of Mt. Willard which hosts many classic routes such as East Face Slab Right.

Day 2 found us at Frankenstein, where we were able to climb Hobbit Couloir, Smear, Pegasus Rock Finish, and Dracula. Paul on Smear.

Sparks flew as Paul climbed the mixed crescendo to Pegasus.

For Day 3 we visited Kinsman Notch, a wonderful location for single pitch climbs of varying difficulty. Paul got to work on his leading skills,  anchor building, belay management, lowering a second, and rappelling.

We also got the chance to climb some difficult ice and mixed routes, such as Hanging by a Moment and The Beast.

Thanks for a great 3 days on the ice.

Matt Ritter MMG Guide

Cathedral Ledge NH is home to the finest ice routes in the area. Jerry and I climbed two of these ice routes in good style – which means sending no falls. Repentance is a must do in the area just see for yourself – the spectacular photo below in todays early morning light. Our plans were to meet early hoping to be the first, we arrived at 6:30 am and the game was ours. Shortly after two local climbers arrived and waited till we topped out to start.

The route is in great shape, even with the missing piece on the crux column.  It has received lots of traffic making it easy to draft the pick holes and rebore some screws which helped us move quickly. All the pitches are steep and technical which keep one highly focused.

We topped out early giving the green light to parties waiting below. An awesome day at Cathedral with Jerry.

First sun on Repentance.

Steep warm up on pitch 1.

Mammut Twilight ropes and Pack along with my preferred belay device the Gi Gi.

Jerry mixing it up on pitch 2.

The final move surmount this chockstone. The question seems to be do you go left or right.

Jerry working through the moves on the left side.

Another steep vein of ice is Super Goofers. A NEI 5- that packs a punch.

Turf, rock climbing and tree hugging helps one complete Super Goofers.

It as a historic day for us, two difficult ice routes completed.

Thanks to Jerry.

Art Mooney

Today Ken and I met up for a great climbing day on Shoestring Gully, a 2,500 foot climb up Mt. Webster. Shoestring Gully is one of the finest and most sought after alpine climbs in the region. Striking a perfect balance of snow and ice climbing, Shoestring cuts through an orange granite cleft, which deposits its climbers onto the summit of Mt. Webster. From the summit one is afforded wonderful views of Crawford Notch and Mt. Willard.

Here is Ken at the start of the technical difficulties.

Ken enjoying some perfect blue ice.

A look up at one of the prize pitches.

Kenny D on top with Mt. Willey and Willard behind.

The route.

Shoestring Gully, an awesome climb in great conditions. Nice work Ken! Thanks for a wonderful day in the hills.

Matt Ritter MMG Guide

Ginny and Ryan took a weekend break and traveled to NH for a mountaineering and ice climbing clinic. Our first day out started with a cold rain on top of 6 inches of heavy slush. I gave Ginny a morning call and update but she and Ryan had two days to climb and wanted to give it a go.

Roads were rough so we made the short drive to Welsh and Dickey to climb and clinic on mountain travel skills. We dressed for the worst and surprisingly kept mostly dry. By 11 the rain stopped and our moods picked up.  Mt Dickey and Mt Welsh were climbed. It was quite a sight seeing the upper mountain all encased in ice above the treeline.  Just after our summit we stopped for a crampon and ice ax clinic to prepare us for the descent on the steeper slopes of Mt Welsh.

Thanks to Ginny for never wavering due to the rain. We all learned new techniques and enjoyed a great day on the ice covered slabs.

A happy looking Ginny during a wet NH climb.

Beauty in the mountains.

 Ryan with his head down making steady progress up the mountain.

Our afternoon clinic on crampon and ice axe movements.

The weather was much nicer on our second day. We went to Kinsman and enjoyed a variety of climbs having the place mostly to ourselves.

The ramp was great for Ginny to practice her newly learned skills.

Ryan enjoyed this longer route with we sticky ice.

Mid day this guy brightened up the scene.

Thanks to Ryan and Ginny for coming to NH and climbing with Mooney Mountain Guides.

Art Mooney

Its not offer I can share my passion with good friends and local climbers. Today Rachael, David and I went out to raise the bar and gain confidence on the ice. These two folks are high level rock climbers that are venturing into this wonderful ice arena. They decided a clinic on leading and movements was in order. We warmed up on a few pillars then David took on the sharp end and led two routes. Solid and steady was the theme for David. In the afternoon we checked out the Luck of the Irish. I think its Kinsman’s best climb. The climb is in beautiful condition, with steep pumpy moves for 60 feet or so. It was awesome we all sent in very good style.  Enjoy the photos of Rachael and David at Kinsman Notch.

David warming up on a steep pillar of ice.

Rachael finding good placements and remember good footwork is key.

David on lead setting a nice line of ice screws for protection.

Here we are working on setting anchors, rope management during  a multi pitch transition.

A visitor came by to view us on the ice.

David on the Luck of the Irish.

It was a very fun day with good friends.

Thanks to Rachael & David.

Art Mooney

Yes its true the ice has taken shape at Rumney Rocks NH. This south facing crag needs colder temperatures to come into shape and this last arctic blast did the trick. Matt and I spent the last two days climbing the classic steep ice lines. We found good conditions on all routes. These cold nights should keep the routes in shape and even fatten them up a bit. Enjoy the photos of MMG Guide Matt Ritter on the sharp end at Rumney NH.

Matt up high on the Geographic Factor NEI 5.  Great climbing with a short overhanging feel at the crux.

Matt on the steep Barbados at the Meadows area.

Looks like floating on the ice.

Another one of the steep pillars at Rumney.

Its great to be out at the home crag again and now its looking good for the next few weeks.

Enjoy the ice while its here.

Art Mooney

This winter has been on the warmer side but I have no complaints. Today the conditions on Cannon were mighty fine. The Black Dike is full of ice from the bottom to top. The temps were in the mid twenties, a light breeze, and the ice was plentiful but getting on the drier side. This next weather maker should put some moisture down to replenish the ice flows.  Screws were placed the entire way with only two pieces of rock gear one fixed and another small cam on the middle pitch. Last year at this time the route was bone dry and stayed that way to mid February. Some are saying this is a unique winter, if so I’ll take these good conditions on Cannon over last years.

Red sky in morning – let the snow begin.

Numerous ice screw holes around the second anchor, counted thirteen holes to be exact.

 The approach is rough, light snow cover, loose talus and scree.

Jerry enjoying the entire route.  This was the second time this season for us and it keeps getting better.

Art Mooney

Jerry and I climbed Gully Number 1 today then headed up to the top by climbing a second route called Cauliflower Gully. Boy what a great position to be in – topping out on an ice runnel high on Mt Willard. The views and climbing were spectacular.

Jerry dialing in the moves on Gully number 1.

The view from Cauliflower Gully.

Jerry midway on Cauliflower Gully. Today we had an excellent alpine outing in Crawford Notch.

Art Mooney

Eric on Pitch 2 of Fafnir – Sunday Jan 8th.

The Third Pitch – Mixed Medium.

The Mixed Master Matt in Action.

Fafnir from the top!

Nice job to MMG guides Matt and Eric.