The Mixing – Cracks, Mountains, Sport

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Steve and I have put together a training plan and it is to climb consistently on a variety of rock climbs and mountain adventures. We have set into action a program taking place in NH and Maine for the next three months. These regular mountain tours and rock routes will prepare Steve for his visit to the Alps this August where he will climb the Matterhorn with Miles and Liz of Smart Mountain Guides. The training plan is a cross fit type – designed to work the body in a variety of ways. One must endure the burn to make necessary gains for bigger adventures on the horizon. Steve has no problem with this he is a player, always ready for the action, never a complaint, he loves to bring it on.

Enjoy the photos of our two and half days of sunny climbing in NH last weekend.

Getting going – our first climb Whitehorse. We took it to the top in 8 pitches of calf burning climbing movements.

Next was the No Good Ritter showing us good style on Cathedrals classic climb called  Funhouse.

Steve jamming the crux of Funhouse.

Its May 12 the temp is 30 and the wind chill 13 and the wind is howling at 80 plus MPH.

Steve is cruise mode on the Jewell Trail, we posted a better than book time of 3.5 hours to the top.

The unrelenting winds kept pushing us around all the way to Lake of the Clouds area.

Lenticulars – no surprise with the winds we encountered.

This could be the last ice and snow of the season for us.

 At Rumney Rocks working sport moves.

Steve climbing the schist in mountain boots.

Terry joined us for a fun time at Rumney.

It was a great weekend of training, climbing and getting together.

Thanks to Steve, Matt, Teresa and Terry

Art Mooney

Parallette Training

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The parallettes are a very simple training tool that anyone can use to make wicked gnarly strength gains. Made to replicate the parallel bars from gymnastics, parallettes, or “P-Bars” can help you to up your climbing game, increase strength, and dial in your gymnast physique (aka JACKED!).

Made from PVC or wood, P-bars cost very little to make and plans can be found online. The investment will be returned many fold if used properly and will deliver immense strength gains in just about every muscle you own. If used in conjunction with a set of gymnastic rings you will need to warn your loved ones about the Incredible Hulk that you are about to become.

The L-sit is fundamental to gymnastics and gymnastic training. Requiring full body strength this exercise alone “could” make you a stronger climber. Begin by sitting between the P-bars. Space them approximately shoulder width. Grasp the bars in the middle with your thumb in line with the bar resting on top. In this position, you should have a straight wrist. Now wrap your thumb around making sure your wrist stays straight. This is important.
Now press down with straight arms. Engage your triceps, shoulders, and lats as you lift your feet off the floor, bringing your thighs close to your chest. Keep the arms and wrists straight!
If you felt good with the Tucked L-sit, try extending one leg out. Bring the foot back and extend the other foot.
Pretty soon, if not already, you will be able to extend both feet out. Now you can time yourself. How long can I hold this L-sit? 20 seconds is great. 30 seconds is awesome!

 If you are already freakishly strong you may be able to, without touching the ground, bring your feet all the way back here into a Tucked Planche. Notice the shoulders in front of the hands and the rounded back. It is difficult to keep the arms straight while trying a Planche but it should be stressed.  More on this later!

When the L-sit gets stronger a slight variation may be added. The V-sit is a very subtle change in body position that has a very drastic feel. From a solid L-sit raise the straight legs so that the thighs come closer to the chest. This will be felt a lot in the Tricep area and is much harder than the L-sit.

 Part of out workout today involved some tire dragging. In this case Art is dragging an unweighted tire up hill in a long sprint. Strength training can be used in conjunction with various forms of conditioning to train for the rigors of climbing but remember that the two most important sections of a good workout are the warmup and the cool down. Our warmup consisted of rowing, endurance bouldering, pushups, pullups, etc. Our cool downs are usually easy easy  rowing or cycling. Be sure to rest a lot and listen to your body.

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

Gunks – Land of the Steeps!!!

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Terry and I climbed for two days at the Gunks. Our timing could not have been better, cool crisp mornings led to warmer temps and fine rock climbing by mid day. We climbed multiple routes in the Trapps mostly repeats but fun none the less. The steep overhangs can be quite challenging but once you understand the rock you realize there will be a jug of a hold coming up very soon.

Terry on the Son of Easy O.

The Trapps viewed from the drive in – over a mile of routes with the carriage road along the base for easy access.

Terry on the classic climb CCK – headed for the overhangs on the direct finish.

Another great route called Strickly from Nowhere.

I am already looking forward to our next trip here its an amazing place to climb.

Art Mooney

AMGA Rock Guide Course

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Here we are at the beginning of The American Mountain Guides Rock guide course in Red Rocks. This is a ten day program designed to meet the needs of aspiring guides who wish to further their skills and guide high end longer more complex Grade 3 to 5 routes. Our itinerary is quite full with multiple days of guided climbs, additional clinics on short rope work, and aspirant testing with movement skills and rescue components. It is the middle of the course and we have just had a one day break due to rain, tomorrow we start up again for five days of multi pitch routes in the canyons of Red Rocks.

First day morning meeting at Red Springs Picnic Area.

Derek on the Fox a varied climb from fingers to offwidth with a stiff rating of 5.10+.

Derek leading the team midway on Group Therapy.

Jim cruising the final pitch of Purblind Pillar.

We meet this Ringtail Cat as we prepped for our second route at Angel Food Wall.

Yes it rains in the desert and cold weather usually follows. We ending our day early in Oak Creek canyon.

Today we rested to give the cliff a chance to dry out. It was a unplanned but welcomed break from the group.

Art Mooney

Red Rocks 2012!!!

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Red Rocks Nevada! This week was one ‘Motha’ of a shindig. We climbed everything from single pitch sport and traditional routes to big multi-pitch classics. Team Peppercom, Steve, Deivis, and Chris, plus Egyptian First Ascentionist, “Adel the Egyptian Stallion” joined us for 7 days of sun and fun. Las Vegas certainly delivers with perfect weather, and great climbing. The night life is pretty respectable as well. Hats off to the whole gang for their awesome performance!

Adel, the “Egyptian Stallion” topless in Las Vegas.

Sculpted backs, and one of many “First Egyptian Ascents” for Adel

Chris and Deivis showing off their battle wounds. Deivis, with the mummified fingers, is only moments away from a “Snorefest” at the first pitch belay on Geronimo.

Chris, rockin’ the Mammut backpack and jacket, on the last pitch of Geronimo!

Steve looking cool and demonstrating textbook chimney technique. On a perfect cragging day. This was as cloudy as it got in our 7 days together in Red Rocks.

Thank you for this fantastic experience.

Matt Ritter MMG Guide

Ginger Cracks a Red Rock Classic!

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Red Rocks has it all. Cracks galore all sizes and shapes, multi pitch face climbs up bullet hard sandstone, and Calico Hills a sport climbing mecca. Jerry and I have been sampling some of the best routes, one I would highly recommend is Ginger Cracks. Today we rose early with plans to be first on the route – this plan delivered we arrived and had a few moments to ourselves.

Ginger Cracks is a 7 pitch route up the northeast side of a pillar in Juniper Canyon. The route is steep and sustained with crack and delicate face climbing. This was a prize route that Jerry and I planned to climb together. We enjoyed the spectacular setting climbing high above the desert floor.

Our morning approach to Ginger Cracks.

The first pitch delivers a punch, jerry enters the wide part.

Jerry sorting out the thoughtful face climbing on pitch 2.

Roofs and cracks leading up to the crux pitch.

Success we climbed clean through the crux pitch.

The final pitch climbs the exposed arete high above the valley.

End of the day view of the Ginger Buttress.

It was a great day climbing with Jerry.

Art Mooney

Mammut – The Biggest Peaks Project in History!!!

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Mammut is 150 years old. To celebrate Bill (Mammut USA CEO) selected a premier team of outdoor enthusiasts from all over the US to climb NH’s most beautiful mountain. To prepare for this climb of Mt Washington the team was equipped with the new Mammut Peaks Collection clothing and equipment. This Mammut team experienced challenge and excitement on a fun adventure climbing to the summit. We all worked together with Mammut’s essential values in mind – solidarity and teamwork.

Matt (MMG Guide) and Bill (Mammut USA CEO) enjoying a rest break at Gem Pool.

Dave joined us from Spokane. He is the general manager of Mountain Gear.

Art and Mike getting geared up for the steep section of the Ammo Trail.

Maureen – Paradox Ambassador from Vermont.

R D joined us from Colorado – Legal Council for the Access Fund .

MMG guide and our event photographer Jim Gagne. A side note – Jim is the first climber in NH to climb all of the big 8 summits.

Kristen – Backpacker Magazine Gear Editor.

Mike and Suzana – Paradox Sports

The NH 150 Peaks Team wearing the new Mammut Peaks Collection pro shell, pants and boots.

It was truly an unforgettable experience on the mountain.

Thanks to Mammut and the team.

Art Mooney

Twice is Nice!!!

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Laurie had her first taste of the ice today and she was full of smiles. We went to Willey’s and had the place to ourselves for most of the day. Conditions were excellent, mostly soft ice with some areas plastered with a few inches from last nights squall. We spent a few hours at the base area getting comfortable on knots, belays techniques, and anchoring systems. Then it was time to climb and climb we did. Our first route went upper the plum center line for four pitches. We topped out at 1 pm.  Plenty of time for a second route up the felt side. It was a great day on the ice with Laurie, we had fun and she was challenged.

Laurie with Willeys Slide behind.

Laurie learning the systems, here she is placing an ice screw for our first anchor.

Laurie belaying me on our first pitch.

Getting into the swing using a very lightweight Petzl Quark Ice Tool.

Smiles as we topped out high on Mt Willey.

                                     

Red cheeks – a sign of a good winter day.

Thanks to Laurie for today, let’s get out and climb again soon.

Art Mooney

Unfinished Business!!!

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Steve and I had unfinished business with this climb. Last season we wallowed in the snow up to our chests just to reach the base of the climb. We climb a few pitches but decide to let the snow settle out.

Today we were back for more. This time the snow conditions were manageable and the ice was phat. We climbed both Lower and Upper Hitchcock and topped out on Willard.

Today was a truly spectacular day in the mountains.

Steve getting warmed up on a cold day.

Upper Hitchcock loaded with ice.

The view keeps getting better as we climb higher.

The final top out into the forest.

The top of Mt Willard – One of the better view points in the White Mountains.

Thanks to Steve for a great time in the mountains.

Art Mooney

Mixing it Up at Trollville

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Where should we climb today -its 45 degrees? Lets see whats going on at Trollville? Aubrey, Matt and I teamed up for a threesome and drove over to Jackson. NEClimbs said mostly out of shape but we were looking for mixed lines not ice. On our approach we viewed the main part of the cliff which was running with water and the ice looked like slush. We kept our focus and went over to the right side in the shade and found four fantastic lines two ice and two mixed. This 50 foot cliff can put on the pump quickly and we were all quite satisfied by days end.

                                     

Aubrey linking a few rock moves onto a short overhang of ice.

Matt leading up our first mixed line M5 (sure).

Aubrey belaying Matt on the M7+

Steel meets the stone.

                                   

Aubrey keeping in balance with a solid back step.

It was great for Aubrey and I to get out and climb with Matt. We were mixing it up in more than one way.

Art Mooney