8 Day Climb a 6000 meter Peak Expedition Itinerary

Day 0: Arrive in La Paz. Begin acclimating as we are at approximately 11,500' in town!

Day 1-3: We explore the sights and contrasts of La Paz and the surrounding area. The mountains rise above as campesinos and businessman intermingle in this complex cultural environment. We explore the ruins of Tiahuanaco. One hour's drive west of the city is this remarkable site, the capital of one of the worlds greatest and longest running empires. Here we find the "Gateway of the Sun," a famous archaeological ruin which influenced the architecture and design of several Andean empires, including that of the Inca.

We travel to Lake Titicaca and soak up the rays while we boat to La Isla del Sol. La Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) was an Incan huaca, or shrine, and the Inca believed this island to be the location of the beginning of the world. We spend our nights in La Paz, or if so desired in the beautiful lakeside community of Copacabana.

Day 4: We leave La Paz in the morning and take a three hour jeep ride to Zongo Pass. On the way to the pass we pass by traditional houses, fields full of llamas, and the sad yet interesting miners' cemetery. We spend the night in the refugio at Zongo at 15,000'.

Day 5: We make a mid-morning departure for Campo Argentino. We climb a smooth path on bare ground until the 15,700' level, then don crampons and ropes for the final climb to our 17,800' camp. From here the views are amazing and the weather should be typical of Bolivia - perfect.

Day 6: Arising early, before sunrise, we begin our summit day on Huayna Potosí. We start with a gradual rightwards traverse towards a short but steep slope. We ascend the slope, taking the time to insure good pacing and safety. Above the steep section we gradually weave our way up the mountain, passing a few crevasses en route to the spectacular summit ridge. Once on the summit we take our photos, enjoy the crisp Andean air, and prepare for descent to Camp Argentino. We will most likely spend the night in Campo Argentino, but occasionally it is possible to descend back to Zongo Pass from the summit.

Day 7: Descend to Zongo Refugio. Here our jeep driver will meet us and we return to La Paz.

Day 8: Departure for the USA or other destinations


8 Day Climb a 6000 meter Peak Expedition Fees
Cost per person: $2500 (maximum client to guide ratio is 3:1)

Program Cost Inclusions
  -UIAGM / IFMGA certified guide Art Mooney
  -Five nights lodging on a shared basis in La Paz
  -Two nights lodging in Zongo Pass Refugio
  -Ground transport within Bolivia
  -Group climbing gear and group camping gear
  -Food while in the mountains
  -Mule/porter fees
  -Park entrance fees

Program Cost Exclusions
  -Airfare to and from La Paz
  -Food while in town
  -Personal equipment
  -Airport tax
  -Insurance
  -Items of a personal nature

14 Day Best of Both Worlds Expedition

We have noticed that many climbers want to climb a high peak and do a moderate technical ascent on their expeditions. If this sounds like you, this is your trip. On this expedition we have two main objectives, Pequeño Alpamayo (17,618') and Huayna Potosí (19,994'). Pequeño Alpamayo is located in the Condoriri group. In this group of mountains there are thirteen peaks over 5000 meters/16,4000 ft. Each peak is accessible within a few hours from base camp. Pequeño Alpamayo is arguably the most beautiful of these mountains, and offers two excellent routes to its summit. One possibility is the Southwest Ridge, a moderate ridge climb which offers 45-55 degree snow and ice climbing to a pointed summit. The other route is the Southeast Face, which consists of an 800' 55 degree slope. Often this slope is composed of neve, or permanent glacier snow, the stuff alpine climbers dream about! In addition, Condoriri, the "Bolivian Matterhorn" is in the area, and can be climbed if we have the energy!

After a rest in La Paz, we journey to Huayna Potosí, one of the world's most accessible high mountains. Huayna Potosí is a 6088 meter/ 19994 ft peak in the center of the Cordillera Real that offers a great introduction to high altitude technical mountaineering. This icy pyramid lies just a few hours drive outside the capital city of La Paz and can be climbed in only a few days.

To participate on this expedition you should be in good physical condition. You should also have some prior mountaineering experience, but this is not essential if you have lots of energy and enthusiasm! Please let us know if you have any questions.

14 Day Best of Both Worlds Expedition Itinerary

Day 0: Arrive in La Paz. Begin acclimating as we are at approximately 11,500' in town!

Day 1-3: We explore the sights and contrasts of La Paz and the surrounding area. The mountains rise above as campesinos and businessman intermingle in this complex cultural environment.

We explore the ruins of Tiahuanaco. One hours drive west of the city is this remarkable site, the capital of one of the worlds greatest and longest running empires. Here we find the "Gateway of the Sun", a famous archaeological ruin which influenced the architecture and design of several Andean empires, including that of the Inca.

We travel to Lake Titicaca and soak up the rays while we journey to La Isla del Sol. La Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) was an Incan huaca, or shrine, and the Inca believed this island to be the location of the beginning of the world.

Day 4: Travel to the village of Tuni and spend the night here at 14000' on the Bolivian altiplano (or high plain). Tuni is a small village of local campesinos who make their living herding llamas and fishing for trout in Lake Titicaca. If we're lucky we'll get to try the delicious trout and the numerous types of potatoes grown in the region.

Day 5: Our "llamero," (llama driver) will load up our gear and we will walk with our llamas to the Black Lake base camp at 15,000.' We pass by several small lakes on our 3-4 hour gentle approach hike, and on the way can admire views of the 3000' west face of Huayna Potosí.

Day 6: We take a day of relaxation, possibly interspersed with some short hikes, to get ready for our climb of Pequeño Alpamayo. The lake around us provides a pleasant location to just breathe deeply and take in the Andean splendor.

Day 7: We arise early to climb Pequeño Alpamayo. We begin by climbing the small sub-peak of Tarija which requires some easy rock climbing. The we descend to a small glacier and gain the Southwest Ridge or Southeast Face of Pequeño Alpamayo itself. After reaching the summit, we descend safely to base camp, arriving there in early evening.

Day 8: Our llamero returns and we hike back to Tuni. At Tuni we meet our jeep driver who returns us to La Paz. In La Paz we enjoy a meal and the thicker air of the city.

Day 9: Rest day in La Paz. We focus on maintaining good hydration and nutrition while we explore the city a bit more. The mercado de brujas or witches' market is a great place for us to go. Don't take photos or you just might be bewitched!!

Day 10: We leave La Paz in the morning and take a three hour jeep ride to Zongo Pass. On the way to the pass we pass by traditional houses, fields full of llamas, and the sad yet interesting miners' cemetery. We spend the night in the lodge at Zongo.

Day 11: We make a mid-morning departure for Campo Argentino. We climb a smooth path on bare ground until the 15,700' level, then don crampons and ropes for the final climb our 17,800' camp. From here the views are amazing and the weather should be typical of Bolivia - perfect.

Day 12: Arising early, before sunrise, we begin our summit day on Huayna Potosí. We start with a gradual rightwards traverse towards a short but steep slope. We ascend the slope, taking the time to insure good pacing and safety. Above the steep section we gradually weave our way up the mountain, passing a few crevasses en route to the spectacular summit ridge. Once on the summit we take our photos, enjoy the crisp Andean air, and prepare for descent to Camp Argentino. We will most likely spend the night in Campo Argentino, but occasionally it is possible to descend back to Zongo Pass from the summit.

Day 13: Descend to Zongo Pass Refugio. Here our jeep driver will meet us and we return to La Paz. Celebratory dinner in La Paz!!

Day 14: Departure for the USA or other destinations


Best of Both Worlds Expedition Fees
Cost per person: $3000 (maximum client to guide ratio 3:1)

Program Cost Inclusions   -UIAGM / IFMGA certified guide Art Mooney
  -Seven nights lodging on a shared basis in La Paz
  -Two nights lodging in Zongo Pass Refugio
  -Ground transport within Bolivia
  -Group climbing gear and group camping gear
  -Food while in the mountains
  -Mule/porter fees
  -Park entrance fees

Program Cost Exclusions
  -Airfare to and from La Paz
  -Food while in town or while traveling by motor vehicle
  -Personal equipment
  -Airport tax
  -Insurance
  -Items of a personal nature

14 Day Bolivian Giants Expedition

Do you like high peaks? Do you aspire to climb some of the world's larger mountains, such as Aconcagua, Denali, or Cho Oyu? If so this expedition could be the perfect stepping stone. Even if you aren't planning more ambitious high altitude objectives, this is still a great trip! The high peaks of Bolivia offer great views and the challenges of high altitude without the nasty weather typical of many other large mountains worldwide.

On this expedition we climb two of Bolivia's largest mountains, Huayna Potosí (6088m/19,974') and Illimani (6439m/21,125'). Huayna Potosí (6088m/19,974') is probably the most accessible 6000 meter peak in the whole world! After a few days visiting sites in and around La Paz, we take a two hour jeep ride to the Zongo Pass area. Here we spend the night in a comfortable refugio (mountain hut) at 15,000'. The next day we ascend to Campo Argentino, our high camp at 17,880.' We are surrounded by beautiful mountains (such as Illimani!) in the distance. Campo Argentino is on a glacier and we take all the necessary precautions to make sure our camp is safe and secure. In the morning we climb up a gentle glacier basin, then climb a short but steep headwall (300' of snow and ice up to 50 degrees). From the top of the headwall, we make a gradual rising traverse. Near the summit the climbing steepens and soon we arrive on Huayna Potosí's fabulous knife-edge summit ridge. The brave can gaze down the 3000' west face, the more reasonable can stay away from the edge on solid snow and ice. We descend from the summit and return to high camp. Sometimes it is possible to descend all the way to the Zongo Refugio on summit day. Shortly thereafter we return to La Paz.

After a day of rest in La Paz, we take a jeep ride to Pinaya, at the foot of Illimani. From Pinaya we walk for a few hours with our arriero (mule driver) and his burros. The burros carry our gear while we slowly ascend to a pleasant meadow-like camp below Ilimani at about 15,000'. The next day we ascent to our spectacular high camp, the Nido de Condores (condor's nest). Here we camp on a flat spot of a ridge, with huge glaciers on both our sides. This is one of the most beautiful campsites we have visited in our journeys throughout the world's mountains. From the Nido camp we make an early start, and climb moderate snow and ice terrain to Illimani's high summit. Rumor has it that a golden cow inhabits the summit area and offers treasures to successful climbers, but as of yet we haven't encountered such a beast. Our descent goes much more quickly, and we can often descend from the summit to Pinaya in one push. We can also elect to spend another night at the Nido de Condores campsite, to take in the magnificent views and fine mountain air before returning to the hustling city of La Paz.

To participate on this trip you should be in good physical condition. In addition some prior mountaineering experience is recommended but not required. Please contact us if you have any questions!!

14 Day Bolivian Giants Expedition Itinerary

Day 0: Arrive in La Paz. Begin acclimating as we are at approximately 11,500' in town!

Day 1-3: We explore the sights and contrasts of La Paz and the surrounding area. The mountains rise above as campesinos and businessman intermingle in this complex cultural environment. We explore the ruins of Tiahuanaco. One hour's drive west of the city is the remarkable site, capital of one of the worlds greatest and longest running empires. Here we find the "Gateway of the Sun," a famous archaeological ruin which influenced the architecture and design of several Andean empires, including that of the Inca.

We travel to Lake Titicaca and soak up the rays while we journey to La Isla del Sol. La Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) was an Incan huaca, or shrine, and the Inca believed this island to be the location of the beginning of the world. We spend our nights in La Paz, or if so desired in the beautiful lakeside community of Copacabana.

Day 4: We leave La Paz in the morning and take a three hour jeep ride to Zongo Pass. On the way to the pass we pass by traditional houses, fields full of llamas, and the sad yet interesting miners' cemetery. We spend the night in the lodge at Zongo at 15,000'.

Day 5: We make a mid-morning departure for Campo Argentino. We climb a smooth path on bare ground until the 15,700' level, then don crampons and ropes for the final climb to our 17,800' camp. From here the views are amazing and the weather should be typical of Bolivia - perfect.

Day 6: Arising early, before sunrise, we begin our summit day on Huayna Potosí. We start with a gradual rightwards traverse towards a short but steep slope. We ascend the slope, taking the time to insure good pacing and safety. Above the steep section we gradually weave our way up the mountain, passing a few crevasses en route to the spectacular summit ridge. Once on the summit we take our photos, enjoy the crisp Andean air, and prepare for descent to Camp Argentino. We will most likely spend the night in Campo Argentino, but occasionally it is possible to descend back to Zongo Pass from the summit.

Day 7: Descend to Zongo Pass Refugio. Here our jeep driver will meet us and we return to La Paz.

Day 8: Rest day in La Paz. We focus on good nutrition and hydration to insure we are fit for our climb of Illimani. Today we could visit the mercado de brujas, the witches' market, or perhaps one of La Paz's many beautiful cathedrals.

Day 9: We take a three hour jeep ride to Pinaya. In the small village of Pinaya we meet our arriero who loads his mules with our equipment. We slowly hike towards our campsite in an alpine meadow area at about 15,000'.

Day 10: Our arriero returns to Pinaya and several porters join us. These local men from Pinaya or Una are very strong, friendly, and reliable. They help us carry loads to the Nido de Condores campsite, making our summit day a little easier as we save energy on the several hour climb to the Condor's Nest. The way up is on a well-worn trail through the scree, and we will be able to admire numerous waterfalls as we ascend to high camp.

Day 11: We arise early (3:30 AM) and leave for Illimani's summit. Much of the climb is moderate snow terrain, but a short section of 50 degree ice may possibly be encountered en route to the summit. From the summit we take in much of the Cordillera Real, and we also have views of the mighty Sajama, Bolivia's highest volcano. After photos and celebrations we descend back to the Nido de Condores high camp.

Day 12: Extra summit day. We use this if we need more time to acclimate or in the event of poor weather. This day can also be used on Huayna Potosí!

Day 13: We descend to Pinaya. In Pinaya we meet our jeep driver who returns us to La Paz. Celebratory dinner in La Paz!!

Day 14: Departure to the USA or other destinations



Bolivian Giants Expedition Fees
Cost per person: $3000 (maximum client to guide ratio 3:1)

Program Cost Inclusions-
  UIAGM / IFMGA certified guide Art Mooney
  -Seven nights lodging on a shared basis in La Paz
  -Two nights lodging in Zongo Pass Refugio
  -Ground transport within Bolivia
  -Group climbing gear and group camping gear
  -Food while in the mountains
  -Mule/porter fees
  -Park entrance fees

Program Cost Exclusions-
  Airfare to and from La Paz
  -Food while in town or while traveling by motor vehicle
  -Personal equipment
  -Airport tax
  -Insurance
  -Items of a personal nature

Ancohuma and Illampu Expedition

Ancohuma and Illampu are two of Bolivia's most challenging and beautiful mountains. They offer great vertical relief and steep, fluted faces similar of Peru's Cordillera Blanca. Illampu is arguably the most challenging 6000 meter peak in the country. On this expedition we climb both peaks using the beautiful town of Sorata as a base of operations.

Our route on Ancohuma (21,081') follows snow and ice arete on the peak's north side. We approach the mountain up a series of mountain trails, traveled for years by local mountain dwellers and in the past by the Inca. We reach Laguna Glacier (Glacier Lake) and set up base camp by it shores. From here we make a series of higher camps. The first part of our climb on Ancohuma is not technically challenging, but it does demand good stamina and glacier travel skills. On summit day we have a number of options. On all routes we encounter steeper terrain and do some belayed climbing to Ancohuma's lofty summit.

Illampu, slightly lower than Ancohuma at 20,867', is climbed from a glaciated basin on its north side. To climb Illampu it is necessary for us to relocate our base camp to this basin. While it is possible to do this directly from Laguna Glacier, we descend to Sorata to allow our bodies' time to rest after our ascent of Ancohuma. From Sorata we climb up paths to Lakathiya, a small mountain village, where we spend the night. The next day we trek over Huila Kota Pass and establish Illampu base camp in a lush area by a mountain stream on the pass's south side. From base camp we make one higher camp in the glacier basin, then head for the summit. Illampu is a difficult climb, requiring many belayed pitches and steep and occasionally exposed climbing on the upper ridge. Summit day's first challenge is a steep snow and ice face which leads to a col high on Illampu. From there we follow an airy ridge with a few steep steps to Illampu's pointed summit. We return to Sorata on foot, and during our last few days in Bolivia we enjoy the town's lush and warm atmosphere. We gaze up at Illampu and Ancohuma from the town park, while palm trees shade us from the midday sun. Join us for this awesome trip!

As these are two technically challenging climbs at high altitude, participants should be in excellent physical condition, be comfortable on ice up to 65 degrees in steepness, and be quite familiar with belay and rappel techniques.

On our approach to our base camps the bulk of our gear will be carried by burros in the lower sections and porters when the going gets steeper. Above base camp we will be carrying our own equipment. Come join us for an amazing mountain adventure.

Ancohuma and Illampu Expedition Itinerary

Day 0: Arrive in La Paz

Day 1-2: We explore the sights and contrasts of La Paz and the surrounding area. The mountains rise above as campesinos and businessman intermingle in this complex cultural environment. We explore the ruins of Tiahuanaco. One hour's drive west of the city is the remarkable site, capital of one of the worlds greatest and longest running empires. Here we find the "Gateway of the Sun," a famous archaeological ruin which influenced the architecture and design of several Andean empires, including that of the Inca. We travel to Lake Titicaca and soak up the rays while we journey to La Isla del Sol. La Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) was an Incan huaca, or shrine, and the Inca believed this island to be the location of the beginning of the world. We spend our nights in La Paz, or if so desired in the beautiful lakeside community of Copacabana.

Day 3: We drive to Sorata, a beautiful town at the northern end of the Cordillera Real. Here we gaze at icy peaks while surrounded by yunga (high jungle) vegetation.

Day 4: From Sorata we begin our trek to Ancohuma base camp. Starting in the yunga environment of Sorata we gradually enter a more alpine-like zone and reach Laguna Colani, a pristine lake perched high above the valley. We use burros to carry our equipment.

Day 5: Porters join us as we tackle a slightly steeper path on our way up to Laguna Glaciar. We establish base camp at this high mountain lake nestled into a mountain cirque. From here the glaciers of Illampu and Ancohuma are very apparent!

Day 6: We rest and acclimatize in base camp.

Day 7: We move up to Camp 1 on Ancohuma. Camp 1 is located at the edge of a gently-angled glacier which leads to the upper slopes of the mountain.

Day 8: We move up to Camp 2. Camp 2 is located on a high glacial plateau. From here we have magnificent views of Illampu and surrounding peaks.

Day 9: We summit and return to high camp. Some technical ground is covered, and we get an early start to insure enough time for a safe return.

Day 10: This is an alternate summit day, used as needed.

Day 11: Descend to base camp. At the lake we take a deserved rest!

Day 12: We descend to Sorata. This is a long day, and we arrive in Sorata in the late afternoon.

Day 13: Rest and relax in Sorata. We could possibly visit one of the town's markets, which are colorful and full of true South American natives.

Day 14: Trek to Lakathiya, a small mountain village located in a high mountain valley near the foot of the Ancohuma massif.

Day 15: Trek to Illampu base camp. We cross the Huila Khota high pass and descend down to a small plain cut by a pristine mountain stream. Here we set up our camp.

Day 16: Move up to Camp 1, or perhaps to high camp if we have the energy.

Day 17: Continue up to high camp in the magnificent glacier basin below Illampu. This camp is surrounded by the massive walls of Illampu's west face and Pico Schulze's east face.

Day 18: Summit climb of Illampu. We climb the upper glacier of Illampu's basin, then ascend a steep headwall for multiple pitches of moderately steep snow and ice (to 65 degrees). Then we follow an amazing ridge, quite exposed in places, to Illampu's scenic and pointed summit.

Day 19: Extra summit day, as needed.

Day 20: Descend to Illampu base camp.

Day 21: Cross Huila Khola pass and descend to Sorata.

Day 22: Return to La Paz, a four hour ride.

Day 23: Return to USA or other destinations


Ancohuma and Illampu Expedition Fees
Cost per person: $3500 (Maximum client to guide ratio 3:1)

Program Cost Inclusions
  -UIAGM / IFMGA certified guide Art Mooney
  -Seven nights lodging, on a shared basis: 2 in La Paz, 2 in Copacabana and 3 in Sorata.
  -Ground transport within Bolivia
  -Group climbing gear and group camping gear
  -Food while in the mountains
  -Park entrance fees

Program Cost Exclusions
  -Airfare to and from La Paz
  -Food while in town or while traveling by motor vehicle
  -Personal equipment
  -Airport tax
  -Insurance
  -Items of a personal nature

Custom Expeditions

We can arrange a trip in Bolivia to fulfill your aspirations. Many combinations of peaks are possible to do in one trip. Please contact us if you have any questions.


General Information for All Expeditions

Mountaineering Background
The integrity and accuracy of each individuals response when providing us with information regarding experience will directly contribute to the potential for success and the enjoyment of the group members. Group members should be comfortable with crampon travel and confident in their self arrest skills on slopes up to 45 degrees. Winter hiking and camping experience is good preparation for high altitude environments. Our Bolivia program is designed to introduce members to the specific skills needed in high altitude mountaineering. Mountaineering experience is not necessary, although a one day course at a climbing school is recommended.

Physical Conditioning
Our route selection does not include routes of extreme technical difficulties, but ascents are long and the demands of altitude are high. Your level of physical conditioning is very important to your safety and your enjoyment of this expedition. While there is no guarantee how even the most fit mountaineer will perform at altitude, an adequate base of conditioning and cardiovascular fitness will increase chances of success, help decrease the unpleasant effects of acclimatization, and generally add to the overall enjoyment of the trip.

Equipment
Upon booking we will send you an equipment list. Below is a sample list. Some items may be added or changed depending on the expedition objective.

Climbing Clothing:
  2 pair synthetic underwear
  2 pair synthetic long underwear tops and bottoms
  3 pair thick synthetic or wool socks
  3 pair synthetic liners
  1 expedition weight bottoms
  2 expedition weight tops
  1 pile or fleece jacket
  Gortex or similar wind shell with full coverage hood
  Gortex pant or similar, bibs work well
  2 pair light or mid weight liner gloves
  1 pair heavy gloves or mitts
  1 pair heavy over mitts
  Wool or synthetic balaclava or hat and face mask
  1 extra hat
  Full coverage gaiters
  100% UV sunglasses and ski goggles

Technical Gear
  Alpine style climbing pack 5000 cu. in. max
  Zero degree sleeping bag and compression stuff sack
  Therma rest or equivalent sleeping pad
  Plastic double boots and mountaineering crampons
  Ice axe/ice tools
  Alpine climbing harness
  2 locking carabiners
  2 1 liter water bottles, with insulating cover
  Headlamp with extra batteries
  Swiss army knife

Misc.
  Mini first aid kit: moleskin, band aids, tape, aspirin, and antibiotics
  Camera and film
  Sunscreen
  Passport, money, charge cards
  Personal eating kit: insulated cup, bowl, spoon(plastic)
  Iodine or water purification tablets

Luggage
We recommend a large duffel bag (Wild Things Burro Bags or EMS bags) work great. They will be used by our mule and llama drivers to bring equipment into base camps.

Recommended Vaccinations
Yellow Fever, Typhoid, Tetanus and Hepatitis A+B are recommended. See your doctor about six weeks prior to the trip.

Food
We eat a variety of fresh, local food in Bolivia. We drink bottled beverages and eat only well cooked items. We watch out for fresh vegetables, uncooked foods, ice cubes, especially in the outdoor markets and small food stands. We will use bottled water to brush our teeth.

Altitude
The airport is above 13500', La Paz is anywhere from 10200' to 13000'. We strongly suggest if you are coming from low elevations that you spend a few extra days in La Paz ahead of the start of this trip. One could easily spend a week to acclimatize before the start of a climb, as there are many great things to do in the area.

Money
Credit or debit cards are best in the larger cities. Travelers checks work in La Paz but not in the smaller towns. Any US currency should be in excellent condition and try to avoid large denominations.

Suggested Readings
  Bolivia Handbook by Alan Murphy
  Bolivia a Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain

Bolivia on the Web
www.Bolivia-tourism.com/
www.Bolivia web.com/

• Past experience in the area. Art has climbed many of Bolivia's peaks and numerous others throughout South America.
• Art, the expedition leader, is an IFMGA certified guide, the highest level of guide certification attainable. Because Art is trained to an international standard we utilize the safest and most current guiding techniques.
• Low ratios. We climb at ratios lower than most American guide services to minimize risk and increase chances of summit success
• You will know who your guide will be. We can tell you who you will be climbing with when you sign up for the expedition.