The Black Dike is a 600' runnel of thin ice and black rock hidden in a dark recess on New Hampshire's massive Cannon Cliff. It is a true challenge and one of New England's most prized mixed climbs. The route demands good form and a solid head. Thin, steep ice and some rock must be overcome to reach the top. The weather doesn't make it any easier. Everything can be encountered, from biting wind, to freezing rain, to relentless spindrift.

"The Dike" is always a unique alpine experience. Here at Mooney Mountain Guides we have made over one hundred ascents of the Black Dike between late October and early April, and each time we marvel at the route's superb challenges and distinctive character. In early season it is often a delicate affair with loose rock and thin ice. Later on, in January and February, the climb usually becomes thicker before it fades away in spring. No matter what season or conditions, this climb is not to be missed!

The ascent begins with a 30 to 40 minute approach up Cannon's talus field, which is a conglomeration of rocks, snow, and shrubs in the winter. From the base the route is normally climbed in three long pitches.

Pitch 1: This pitch is a long one. Begin at the base of the ice, just to the right of the prominent Whitney Gilman Ridge. Follow ice in the corner at first, then bear slightly to the right heading for a fixed belay (or belay of screws on right). In good conditions, this lead can be simple WI 3 but more often than not it may be the hardest pitch on the route and many times offers no protection. (200', WI 3 to M5 depending on conditions)

Pitch 2: The usual crux pitch. On occasion one can climb the ice directly off the fixed belay, but usually the Rock Traverse is taken. From the belay, climb up and right about 8 feet (look for a fixed pin or nut up and right) and then traverse left on black, tile-like rock. The climbing on the traverse is not physically demanding but demands good balance and a very solid head. Reach the ice and follow it through two nearly vertical sections to a belay at the top of the shaft on a flatter area. There are fixed pitons for the belay, back them up with ice screws if possible! (135', WI 5- M5)

Pitch 3: The final pitch has two main variations. For both, climb off the belay approximately 50 feet until underneath an obvious steepening in the ice. From here two main finishes are possible. In early season climb up and trend to the right, heading for a faint dihedral which leads to the trees. Often there is some demanding mixed climbing near the top of this pitch. Belay about 15' back and up from trees. The left finish is usually easier and is slightly longer. To take it trend left after the steep section and follow the ramp of ice to the top of the Dike. A tree belay can be arranged to climbers' left. (120' left, 165' right, WI 4/4+ M5)

Descent: To descend on foot head up and slightly left from the top of the Dike and you should pick up an obvious trail. The trail climbs initially for a short ways then heads left before descending down and to skier's right as it outflanks the cliff. The trail leads back to the snowmobile road at the base of the cliff. If you are descending on foot bring all of your gear with you up the route, the walk off does not return to the bottom of the cliff.

During the winter months Lake Willoughby, VT offers some of the best ice climbing and mixed climbing anywhere. Many steep routes, incredible views, and short approaches make this area a real winner. For the advanced ice climber the obvious challenge at Lake Willoughby is an ascent of one of the longer routes, such as The Last Gentleman. This route is a true classic because of its verticality,length, and position.

The route offer approximately 500' of steep water ice, most of it nearly vertical. The climb towers above the frozen, windswept surface of Lake Willoughby during cold New England winters and just begs to be climbed. The route is usually done in three long pitches. The first pitch varies from thin to non-existent, so often the first pitch of the adjacent Promenade is climbed and a short traverse is made to reach the ice on the Gentleman. The second pitch is a real tester. It features about 80 feet of vertical ice before tipping back to a slightly more comfortable angle. The third pitch tackles more steep ice and leads to the tangled woods atop Mt. Pisgah.

An ascent of the Last Gentleman is one of the finest ice outings in New England, and is truly a benchmark in any ice climber's career.

Park your car by the east shore of Lake Willoughby about halfway up the lake in a pullout on the right. Look for a tracks heading up the slopes to the ice climbs. The Last Gentleman is the prominent, leftmost flow on the tallest part of the cliff system. Occasionally it has a common top section and two independent lower sections. Approach the route by climbing up snow gullies to the route's base. 30 minutes.

Pitch 1: This pitch is often very thin and occasionally not formed. If this is the case, the Promenade Traverse should be used to access the Gentleman's upper ice. Climb about 50' of ice on the Promenade, the prominent flow to the right of the Gentleman, to a small ledge system. Angle up and left on the ledge system and arrange a belay where convenient. It's location will depend on the condition of the ice and availability of anchors. Ideally the belay will be right next to the ice of the Last Gentleman. If the first pitch is formed, climb a pitch of steepening ice to a belay. This belay sometimes can be made in a hollow and sometimes is semi-hanging. (145'-200', up to WI 4+ M4+)

Pitch 2: The crux. Leave the belay and climb steep ice for a full pitch. After about 80' of steep ice the angle eases slightly and some rest can be found. Arrange a belay on the highest ice ledge possible beneath the route's upper headwall. (165'+, WI 5)

Pitch 3: Take it to the trees! Generally the line of choice climbs up and left from the pitch 2 belay. Take the time to enjoy the amazing views from this one! (165'+, WI 4+/5-)

Descent: The descent is usually accomplished in three rappels. The first anchor is usually a tree at the cliff's top, the second and third are usually V-threads. Make sure to inspect the condition of existing V-threads and don't be afraid to make another or leave a screw to back them up! If you're not in the mood to rappel a walk off descent is possible. Climb through the trees and bear slightly right and you will intercept a descent trail which outflanks the cliff to the south. If this descent option is taken be sure to have all of your gear with you or you will have to climb back up to the route's base to retrieve it.

When this route was first done it represented a breakthrough in New England ice climbing. Today this route is still very challenging and offers several pitches of aesthetic mixed climbing. Repentance is a difficult and somewhat dirty chimney in the summer months, but in the winter it fills with ice and becomes a superb route. The climb is characterized by ice only two to three feet wide for most of its length, interspersed with short mixed sections and a final chockstone finish. It is normally done in three to four difficult pitches. Climbers attempting this ascent should be very confident in their ice and mixed climbing skills!

Approach: When driving north on Route 16 in North Conway, turn left at the stoplight just after (north of) the Eastern Slope Inn onto River Road. Follow this to a T-junction with the West Side Road, and then continue straight ahead through open fields. Look for a sign for Cathedral Ledge and turn left at this sign. Follow this road to near the base of the cliff, parking where you feel is appropriate (the best spot depends on the plowing that year). Follow the road a little ways past an information board and outhouse on your left, then head up and left into the woods (probably on a packed path). You will reach the base of Cathedral Ledge in 2-3 minutes. From here turn right and follow the base of the cliff to a large, prominent chimney system hopefully choked with ice. This is Repentance. (10 mins)

Pitch 1: Climb a short free-hanging pillar to ice in the beginning of the chimney. Follow this ice, which is initially about three feet wide, to a good ledge for a belay on the left. There is a bolted anchor here. (70', WI 4)

Pitch 2: The crux. Step right off the belay onto a very steep and thin segment of ice. Be very delicate as you climb up into the chimney and reach easier ice above. After taking a breather climb straight up the chimney negotiating two sections that are noticeably steeper and narrower than the rest of the pitch. Look for a belay stance on the left (fixed slings) after the second narrowing just after the route leaves the confines of the chimney. Some rock protection (#1, #2 Camalots) is useful on this pitch. (165', WI 5)

Pitch 3: Climb steep ice off the belay. Some rock protection may be possible on the left. Follow the the ice to lower-angled terrain near the top of the route. From here the finishing chockstone will be obvious. Arrange good protection underneath the chockstone (a #3 Camalot can be helpful here, watch rope drag) and lieback and stem your way over the chockstone's left side. This finish is a real "sting in the tail", so be prepared! Belay from trees at the top of the route. (150', WI 5 M5)

Descent: A rappel descent is possible, but it is better to walk off. To do so climb to the top of the gully (50' of easy snow) and flat ground. Follow the cliff's edge on a usually packed trail down and right, taking care not to head down too soon as there are various crags in the woods. Follow the trail around the north end of Cathedral Ledge to the cliff's base. Head along the base of the cliff to your packs and retrace the approach route to your car.